Montag, 17. September 2012
INTERVIEW / jessica leclere
Today i got the pleasure to introduce a new talent, currently graduated from the Chelsea College, London, UK : Jessica Leclere. Her Graduate Collection is an amazing mix of pattern, minimalism and style and reminds a little bit to Isabel Marant, Celine and Henrik Vibskov. A fantasic composition of colour, form and texture. Last week, Jessica gave me answers of a few questions about her work, her inspiration, the design process and her future.
Who are you and what interests you / your work?
I am a half French half English freelance textile designer. I grew up in Paris and
moved to London 4 years ago to study at Chelsea College where I just graduated
from a textile design course specializing in knit design. I’m interested in the
textural aspect of knitting as well as colour combination and shape. I like to think
of my work as having simple but structured shapes so that the intricate knitting
techniques are fully emphasised.
Where do you work?
I am currently doing a series of internships and preparing my portfolio to apply
to the RCA for a masters program in December.
Your current collection combnes so many factors: fragility,
pattern, strictness, playfulness. What is concept behind the collection?
My inspiration for this collection was the aesthetic of Nordic coastlines. I used
wood and string as well as cotton yarns in my pieces making reference to drift
wood and washed up ropes found on deserted beaches. I tried to make this
collection interesting by integrating unusual materials in simple knits.
Do you design and produce the materials themselves?
I do everything myself from choosing and dying the yarn to knitting, cutting and
linking all the final pieces together into full garments.
Do you have your favourite piece? And why?
I have two favourites, the grey and pink string piece, because it’s very detailed
and it took me ages! As well as the green dip dyed string one for it’s simplicity
and futuristic look.
What kind of person do you imagine wearing your clothing?
I would like my pieces to be worn by people who value the amount of work put
into them and appreciate them as special pieces.
How important is the craftsmanship in your work?
The craftsmanship is very important! Everything was knitted on industrial hand
manipulated machines. The pieces where shaped and altered depending on how
the materials worked with each other and with the equipment used. The use of
wood veneer in my garments made the whole process delicate and sometime
very tricky as the wood easily snapped.
How do you start a collection. What ìs your inspiration?I start a collection with a theme in mind. I research the imagery of this theme
through books, internet, my own photography and a lot of sketches. Then I play
around on the machines, pick a technique that I find interesting and develop it in
as many different ways as I come up with.
What is for you the most important factor in the design process?
Research is definitely the most important factor in designing a collection, the
knowledge of what you are working with is essential.
Design for the individual or for the mass?
I don’t really think of who I’m designing for. I guess I do it for me.
What is your goal for the future?
I’m not sure what I would like to do for sure in the future but my goal right now
is to get onto a good masters program where I can push the experimentation to a
maximum without being worried about what’s going to sell.
Interview: Stephanie Passul
Photography: Rory Van Millingen
Model: Marloes (M+P Models)
Make-up artist: Jodie Alsaiegh
All Photos via
© Jessica Leclere